Jil Sander Men’s F/W 2010
The Vibe for Fall 2010 [GQ]
MILAN, January 16, 2010
A collection as whimsical as it is minimal, featuring suits, shirts, and trousers festooned with fabric rhombuses and trapezoids; models sporting bouffants shellacked with OPEC-grade amounts of grease; and a few inflated puffer jackets here and there for good measure. And—who knew?—wedged in the middle of it all, some razor-sharp suits, cut from vintage-looking Rat Pack-era wools.
Hyperkinetic pacing and blistering techno music set an aggressively modern tone at Jil Sander, where Raf Simons’ flawless tailoring provided a clean canvas for an eccentric experiment with patches shaped like tumbled rocks.
They looked geometric and organic at the same time, and were functional, too: as pockets, fasteners or waist tabs on impeccable suits and cabans. The retro-futuristic shapes also appeared in the textures of sweaters and were applied to leather shoes.
For his best suits, Simons let unique fabrics—blurred checks and mod micro-patterns with minute, but intense threads of color—do the talking. For the outerwear statement, short duvet jackets had extra volume and an exterior layer of fabric for a smooth hermetic surface, and curiously rotund shapes.
Simons offered plenty of newness and distinction for fashion-forward modernists, and at the same time, made it easy to see how the pieces could be modified to be more commercial.